It wasn’t as cold as last winter so the street looks lost the heavy outerwear and girls and boys alike primped up in colours for the cameras. On the runway, there was an overarching back-to-nature theme, which was seen with abundance at Ermenegildo Zegna and Salvatore Ferragamo amongst others, with a bleaker, more blustery edition that sprang up at Moncler. Clothing veered towards the safe, with collections looking a lot more austere and commercial. Perhaps wearability had become the new buzzword for a period when so much had become so tumultuous.
The current preoccupation with nature, protective clothing and a more sedate, muted palette is a reflection of that. As civil wars and human catastrophe covered by the international media channels are beamed around the world, and social media instated as a new tool for terrorist propaganda, the underlying dissonance affecting the world seems to have creeped into the consciousness of designers as well. Calvin Klein had perfectly fitted, cropped black military jackets over an all black ensemble in a monochrome collection. The models resembled an elite squadron of secret agents in their precisely ordered outfits.
At Prada, Miuccia Prada clad almost her entire uniform-like collection in the brand’s signature black nylon, during the show the interstellar-like set-up made it seem like her models were stalking off into infinity—fearless, modern explorers of what lies beyond. Dolce & Gabbana (above) looked closer to home with ‘family’—the key inspiration behind their AW15 collection. The duo put out an entire wardrobe of options for every male of the famiglia. Argentinian Paolo Coppola, the new creative director at Bally, decided to settle on a more quirky family and drew his inspiration from Wes Andersen’s The Royal Tenenbaums for a very noteworthy AW15 line from the swiss brand.